Measuring Tire Tread Depth with a Coin . coins can be substituted for a tire tread depth gauge as tires wear to the critical final few 32nds of an inch of their remaining tread depth. Place a penny into several tread grooves across the tire. If part of Lincoln's head is always covered by the tread, you have more than 2/32" of tread depth remaining. Place a quarter into several tread grooves across the tire autel maxidiag elite md802. If part of Washington's head is always covered by the tread, you have more than 4/32" of tread depth remaining. Place a penny into several tread grooves across the tire. If the top of the Lincoln Memorial is always covered by the tread, you have more than 6/32" of tread depth remaining. Once you have determined the approximate remaining tread depth in the first location, you can complete your measurement of each tire by placing the coin into additional locations at least 15 inches apart around the tire's central circumferential groove, as well as in its inner and outer grooves. This will help detect uneven wear caused by mechanical or service conditions. The Law According to most states' laws, tires are legally worn out when they have worn down to 2/32" of remaining tread depth. To help warn drivers that their tires have reached that point, tires sold in North America are required to have indicators molded into their tread design called "wear bars" which run across their tread pattern from their outside shoulder to inside shoulder. Wear bars are designed to visually connect the elements of the tire's tread pattern and warn drivers when their tires no longer meet minimum tread depth requirements. Common Sense However, as a tire wears it's important to realize that the tire's ability to perform in rain and snow will be reduced. With 2/32" of remaining tread depth, resistance to hydroplaning in the rain at highway speeds has been significantly reduced, and traction in snow has been virtually eliminated. If rain and wet roads are a concern, you should consider replacing your tires when they reach approximately 4/32" of remaining tread depth. Since water can't be compressed, you need enough tread depth to allow rain to escape through the tire's grooves. If the water can't escape fast enough, your vehicle's tires will be forced to hydroplane (float) on top of the water, losing traction. If snow-covered roads are a concern, you should consider replacing your tires when they reach approximately 6/32" of remaining tread depth to maintain good mobility. You need more tread depth in snow because your tires need to compress the snow in their grooves and release it as they roll. If there isn't sufficient tread depth, the "bites" of snow your tires can take on each revolution will be reduced to "nibbles," and your vehicle's traction and mobility will be sacrificed. Because tread depth is such an important element for snow traction, winter tires usually start with noticeably deeper tread depths than typical All-Season or summer tires. Some winter tires even have a second series of "wear bars" molded in their tread pattern indicating approximately 6/32" remaining tread depth to warn you when your tires no longer meet the desired tread depth maxidiag elite md802.
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Ford Explorer Transmission Problem? Q. Hi Vincent, I am experiencing a problem with the transmission slipping. When I press on the gas from 0 mph it goes up gradually to about 30 mph and then acceleration stops for a few seconds but the rpm and engine rev sound goes up. After a few seconds, the speed goes up normally from 30 mph and up. They tell me this is called slipping. Ford Explorer Transmission Problem? This problem occurs at the same time as when I was having a problem with the electrical system that was causing my car to stall intermittently after an okay start. Under normal conditions, the high low voltmeter on the dash is about 3/4 of the gauge markings and the car would run okay. But intermittently, when I turn the car on it is only 1/4 of the voltmeter gauge markings. When this happen the car still start okay and idle in park okay but when I put it in drive, there is a big jolt in the transmission and the car dies. This problem went away after a long trip. I had two professional mechanics check the electrical system afterwards but they think I am going bonkers because they cannot reproduce it and the standard electrical test they performed gave okay results. I have been stalled for at least 5 or 6 times before the problem went away. I just replaced the alternator anyways but I think the last one was okay. The battery is 5 years old. I have been researching other Ford Explorer owners and they seem to make me think that electrical problems maybe the cause of the transmission slipping as it maybe disrupting computer control of the transmission. I am praying that this the cause since it can avoid a $2, to $3, problem. What do you think? Help... 1996 Ford Explorer liter V-6 ODB-II 133 autel maxisys pro,000 miles Automatic transmission Thanks... A. On the surface it does sound like an internal transmission problem. But after thinking about the voltage readings you say the gauge is giving you, I think it would be well worth some time and effort to check the electrical side first. Computers and control units are funny critters; they need a minimum voltage to operate properly. Go below that voltage and they are just so much metal and chips. What we need to do is get a reliable voltage reading to see where it's at. Run a pair of wires from the positive and negative terminals of the battery and run them into the truck. Speaker wire is good enough for this purpose and will be a bit neater. Then hook up a digital voltmeter to the wires doing what you have to do to insulate the ends so it doesn't short out autel maxidas ds708 update. An inline 20 amp fuse on the positive side would be a great safety precaution. Now when you get in and start the vehicle, you can see what the actual voltage is and then see if there is a correlation between the transmission problem and battery voltage. If all is fine when battery voltage is normal, and the transmission acts up when battery voltage is low, then you can safely assume there is a charging system problem. If it happens regardless of batter voltage, then I would look at the transmission control system and possibly the transmission itself. And a five year old battery should be replaced, especially at this time of year.
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How long do car tires last? byAkweli Parker Car Tire Maintenance Would you like a way to save a few hundred bucks a year on car-related expenses, with no cash out of your pocket? Just keep your tires inflated at the recommended pressure. It's estimated that correct tire inflation can result in a percent increase in fuel efficiency autel maxisys mini. According to some sources, that's good for about $2 of savings at every fill-up. And if you factor in increased tire life, your savings are even greater [source: Allen]. Tire pressure gauges are inexpensive, available at any auto parts store and are easy to use. Vehicles built in the United States after Sept. 1, 2007, have been required to have tire pressure monitoring systems built-in. But how do you know what the correct pressure is? If you've ever taken a close look at your car, you probably noticed the assortment of auto part information located on stickers or stamped onto the car itself. The government requires that this car part information be visible, so that consumers or someone servicing the car will know the correct specifications for making adjustments or for replacing various car parts. This information is easy to find for your tires. On cars sold in the United States, you can locate information about the original equipment tires in many places -- sometimes it's in the front door jamb, or it might be on the glove box door. You'll always find it in the vehicle owner's manual and on the tires themselves, too. Since quality tires can be expensive, this is an area where extending car part longevity as much as possible makes good sense. Keeping your tires at adequate pressure -- no more and no less -- is a no-brainer then. You'll find the maximum tire pressure listed in both metric kilopascals (kPa) and in pounds per square inch (psi) autel maxiscan ms609. If the owner's manual or door sticker differs from what's on the actual tire, always go by the information on the tire. Remember to measure tire pressure when the tires are "cold," that is, prior to making any trips. Driving heats up the air in the tires, causing it to expand. Also, inflate your tires to the recommended level, not to the maximum pressure listed. Inflating all the way to the listed maximum means that they could be dangerously overinflated during driving and cause an accident. Changing your oil and antifreeze at scheduled intervals are well-known ways to increase auto part longevity. Clean fluids mean that the engine and all the components attached to it don't have to work as hard. In that same vein, it's a good idea to rotate your tires about every 5,000 to 8,000 miles (8,047 to 12,875 kilometers). Rotating your tires allows the tread to wear evenly so that you get more useful life from your tires. Provided you know how to safely use a jack and jack stands, rotating your own tires is a simple maintenance procedure. This tire rotation chart (midway down the page) from the NHTSA shows proper tire rotation on front-wheel drive, rear-wheel drive and four-wheel drive vehicles.
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Diesel Engine Problems Using Extra Low Sulfur Fuel Low sulfur diesel is in many ways an improvement of old high-sulfur diesel, but it isn't free of problems. The sulfur in older fuels combines with nickel in the engine to create a molten alloy that enhances lubricity, a property that engineers anticipated when designing engines for the fuels. While engines and vehicles designed specifically for use with ULSD work well with it, the fuel hasn't proven very popular with owners of older power plants. Lower Lubricity This is by far the biggest problem with ULSD. Diesel fuel, being essentially dinosaur juice, contains a certain amount of naturally occurring sulfur, which acts as a lubricant for your fuel system and engine in the same way antifreeze does for your cooling system; running without it is like running your engine and fuel pump without oil. The fuel pump, being essentially a tiny model of the diesel, is especially susceptible to loss of lubrication, since fuel is the only lubrication it has. Consequences of Lower Lubricity Fuel pump damage is one of the more inevitable consequences of using ULSD, but it isn't the most severe. Two-stroke engines in particular are especially dependent upon sulfur as a lubricant, and running without the sulfur or something equivalent can easily result in premature cylinder bore and piston ring wear. While that may seem a bit far off, here's something that will hit you in the pocketbook today: according to one test conducted by "Diesel Power," loss of lubricity alone was enough to reduce fuel efficiency by a whopping 7 percent. And, as a an added perk, the nitrile rubber seals used in many fuel systems rely on sulfur to keep them swelled up and sealing. Depriving them of sulfur can result in almost immediate fuel leaks and seal failures in the pump. Fuel Cetane Rating Fuels come with two basic ratings. Octane -- the fuel's ability to resist premature detonation -- you're familiar with, but is far less relevant to diesels than cetane rating. Cetane is a measure of ignition delay ds708 update price, or the period between when the fuel enters the engine and when it actually ignites. Higher cetane numbers mean less ignition delay, which means more complete and efficient combustion. Removing sulfur involves flooding the fuel with hydrogen, which drops the cetane number by 5 to 10 points. Consequences of Cetane Rating There are two primary issues with ULSD's lower cetane rating. The first is the loss of cetane itself, which causes a significant drop in fuel economy and possibly horsepower. Interestingly, that loss in fuel economy equates to an increase in hydrocarbon emissions, which sort of defeats the purpose of ULSD. The second major problem is that different fuel manufacturers use differing methods of removing the sulfur, and with varying levels of efficiency. This means that you might be getting 50 cetane fuel at one gas pump, and 40 at the next. Fuel Additives There are a number of additives on the market designed to allow older diesel engines to operate with ULSD fuels; it's a growth market, to be sure, considering the average diesel's service life and the fairly recent standardization of ULSD. In the "Diesel Power" test, the author saw the test truck's fuel economy rise from mpg with straight ULSD to with a simple switch to two-stroke diesel with lubricant in it. Switching to a specialized additive with a synthetic lubricant and cetane booster brought fuel economy up to a respectable miles per gallon. Biodiesel While the EPA does have a long history of good intentions, fuels like ULSD serve to illustrate the drawbacks inherent to the short-term bandages they're willing to accept. The future of diesel, to one extent or another probably lies in the production of biodiesel. Biodiesel -- produced by processing vegetable oil and other naturally occurring seed oils -- offers incredible lubricity, even compared to the eutectics produced when sulfur combines with nickel. The cheapest biodiesel has a cetane rating of about 48, as high as 63 depending upon the manufacturer md802 update. It contains no sulfur whatsoever, and it's even fully renewable. Break out the sunshine and rainbows; somewhere up North, polar bears are smiling.
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Cooling system Written by: The Editors of Encyclop?dia Britannica Cooling system, apparatus employed to keep the temperature of a structure or device from exceeding limits imposed by needs of safety and efficiency. If overheated, the oil in a mechanical transmission loses its lubricating capacity, while the fluid in a hydraulic coupling or converter leaks under the pressure created. In an electric motor, overheating causes deterioration of the insulation. The pistons in an overheated internal-combustion engine may seize (stick) in the cylinders. Cooling systems are employed in automobiles autel ds708, industrial plant machinery, nuclear reactors, and many other types of machinery. (For a treatment of cooling systems used in buildings, see air-conditioning.) The cooling agents customarily employed are air and a liquid (usually water or a solution of water and antifreeze), either alone or in combination. In some cases, direct contact with ambient air (free convection) may be sufficient; in other cases, it may be necessary to employ forced-air convection, created either by a fan or by the natural motion of the hot body. Liquid is typically moved through a continuous loop in the cooling system by a pump. In a transmission, if the surface area of the housing (container) is sufficiently large compared with the power lost, or if the transmission is in a moving vehicle, there is usually adequate free convection and no need for artificial cooling. To augment the cooling effect by increasing the surface area, the housing may be provided with thin metal fins. On some stationary mechanical transmissions, it may be necessary to circulate the lubricating oil through pipes surrounded by cold water or to use a fan to blow air through pipes surrounded by the oil in the reservoir. On many electric motors, a fan is attached to the rotating element to create a current of cooling air through the housing. In an automobile, the motion of the vehicle provides sufficient forced-convection cooling for the transmission and the gears in the rear axle; in the engine, however, so much energy is released that, except for some early models and certain small cars with low-powered engines autel maxidas ds708, air cooling is inadequate, and a water cooling system (radiator) is required. A typical automotive cooling system comprises (1) a series of channels cast into the engine block and cylinder head, surrounding the combustion chambers with circulating liquid to carry away heat; (2) a radiator, consisting of many small tubes equipped with a honeycomb of fins to convect heat rapidly, that receives and cools hot liquid from the engine; (3) a water pump, usually of the centrifugal type, to circulate the liquid through the system; (4) a thermostat to control temperature by varying the amount of liquid going to the radiator; and (5) a fan to draw fresh air through the radiator. To prevent freezing, an antifreeze solution is either added to or substituted for water. To raise the boiling point of the solution, the cooling system is usually pressurized by means of a pressure cap on the radiator with valves that open outwardly at a prescribed pressure and inwardly to prevent a vacuum as the system cools.
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Car Dashboard Functions Whether you're a novice or experienced driver, you must pay attention to your car's dashboard functions to keep track of important information about your car. The items on your car's dashboard remind you when it's time to get gas, tell you how fast you're going, and warn you if there might be a problem with your car maxidiag elite md802. Gauges Most of the room on your car dashboard is taken up with different gauges that provide a variety of functions. Car dashboard gauges include: the speedometer, tachometer, fuel gauge, temperature gauge and odometer. Typically located on the dashboard directly in front of the steering wheel, these gauges are the items on your dashboard of which you should be most aware. The speedometer tells you the vehicle's speed. The tachometer shows you the rpm of your engine. The fuel gauge informs you how much gas you have. The temperature gauge lets you know if your engine is overheating, and the odometer tells you how far you've driven. Additional gauges for features, like oil, may also appear among your dashboard gauges. Warning Lights Keep an eye on your dashboard for the dashboard warning lights. If a warning light comes on, you typically need to take your car to a mechanic to identify the problem causing the light to illuminate autel md801. Warning lights can turn on for simple problems, like you need an oil change, or more serious issues, such as engine problems. Your dashboard typically includes at least one warning light for the engine, battery, coolant, fuel, brakes, anti-lock brake system, seat belt, door and air bag. Additional lights may also illuminate for functions like the parking brake. Advanced Functions The advent of technology is resulting in more features being added to a car's dashboard. Some cars now include advanced features, such as cameras to help drivers back up, jacks for mp3 devices, global positioning systems (GPS), digital music players and Internet access.
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A Shocking Expose: Your Car's Battery Republished: 06/18/2009 (Original Date: 12/17/2000) - By Scott Memmer, Contributor Automotive batteries come in many shapes and sizes, but their operating principles are remarkably similar. In this Tech Center installment, we'll look at the basic automotive battery. Then we'll close by discussing ways to maintain your battery to ensure a long life. The modern automotive battery is a lead-acid storage design. In short, it's an electrochemical device that converts chemical energy into electrical energy. When the battery is placed under a load, such as when the ignition is switched on, the device converts stored chemicals into electricity, and the current flows through the wires to its destination. A standard 12-volt, lead-acid battery is made up of six cells connected in series. Each cell produces approximately two volts. The cells are filled with an electrolyte. An electrolyte is an ionized bath - in this case, sulfuric acid (H2SO4) diluted with water - that generates an electrical current when called upon. Each cell also contains plates (grids of active material), which are both positive and negative. Typically, the positive plates contain lead dioxide (PbO2), while the negative plates are composed of straight lead (Pb). The plates are formed into a plate group, which holds a number of plates of the same polarity (for instance, all positive or all negative). The like-charged plates are welded to a post strap. The plate groups are then alternated within the battery - positive, negative, positive, negative. There is usually one extra set of negative plates to balance the charge. To ensure that the different plate groups don't touch each other, non-conductive sheets called separators are inserted between them. The battery case, which holds all these components, is made from molded polypropylene. A maintenance-free battery, similar in design to a conventional automotive battery, is really just a heavier-duty version of the same arrangement. Many of the components have thicker construction, and different, more durable materials are typically used. For example, the plate grids often contain calcium, cadmium or strontium, to reduce gassing (which causes water loss) and self-discharge. This design is called a lead-calcium battery. The heavier-duty parts ensure that fluid loss is kept to a minimum and that components have a much longer life, making it a closed system. The charge of a conventional 12-volt automotive battery is actually volts. This can vary slightly, depending on the concentration of the electrolyte in solution. Ideally, for optimum battery performance, the sulfuric acid/water bath should have a specific gravity of at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Specific gravity refers to the weight of a solution, with water having a reference rating of . The electrolyte in an automotive battery is therefore just slightly over one-and-a-quarter times the weight of regular water. Battery power rating is measured by two standards. The more popular of these, cold cranking power, determines the amount of current (amps) a battery delivers for 30 seconds at zero degrees Fahrenheit while maintaining a minimum terminal voltage of volts. The higher the number, the stronger the battery. Think of those old Diehard commercials, with all those non-Sears batteries giving up the ghost in the cold and snow, and this will perhaps give you a visual image. The second standard is called reserve capacity rating. This is a warm weather rating (80 degrees Fahrenheit), which estimates the amount of time it takes the terminal voltage of a fully charged battery to dip below (or volts per cell) at a continuous discharge rate of 25 amps. The rating is expressed in minutes. For example, a rating of 120 means the battery will run for two hours (120 minutes) before ceasing to function. A battery has two main cycles, the charge and discharge the discharge cycle, a chemical reaction takes place inside the battery in which the lead (Pb) of the negative plates combines with the SO4 of the sulfuric acid to produce lead sulfate (PbSO4) ds708 update cost. In this cycle, the electrolyte becomes weaker - specific gravity lessens - and the positive and negative plates become more like one another. Since the voltage, or charge, of a battery depends on the difference between the two plate materials and the concentration of the electrolyte, and since this difference decreases during discharging, the battery loses power. To anyone who has sat in a non-starting car and cranked away as the battery grew weaker and weaker, this scenario will be immediately recognizable. In the charge cycle, the reverse is true. Electrical current, generated by the car's alternator, passes through the plates, forcing SO4 back into the electrolyte bath and elevating specific gravity. Voltage increases. Safety Precautions Sulfuric acid is highly caustic. Caution should used when dealing with electrolyte or automotive batteries. Sulfuric acid can burn clothing and the skin and even cause blindness. There is even a slight danger of explosion. Most battery professionals wear gloves and goggles or a face shield when working. If for some reason electrolyte gets on your clothes or body, it should immediately be neutralized with a solution of baking soda and water md802 update. When working on a battery or handling sulfuric acid, here are some safety tips: * Always wear goggles or a face shield. * Use a lead-lined or nonmetallic container to hold electrolyte. * Always pour acid slowly into water, not water into acid. * Stir as you add small amounts of acid. * Never lean over a battery when charging, testing, or jump-starting an engine. * Always disconnect the negative cable first and reconnect it last. * Charge batteries only in well-ventilated areas. * Never charge or jump-start a frozen battery; let it warm to at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Speaking of charging, there are several different methods used to recharge a depleted battery. The most gentle of these is called trickle-charging. Other methods include quick-charging and slow-charging. See your battery's owner's manual to decide which method may work best for your situation, or talk to your mechanic. One advantage of a manual transmission is the ability to start a vehicle with a depleted battery. If the charging system (alternator and voltage regulator) are in proper working condition, simply push-start the car and kick it over, then drive long enough to let the charging system do its work. A good half-hour drive should give it a solid charge. Here are a few tips to quickly restore a battery using this method. 1. Drive at a constant speed (highway driving) versus stop-and go (city driving). This will give the alternator an opportunity to charge more evenly. 2. Turn off all accessories (radio, air conditioner, etc.). 3. If possible, drive during the day. Even headlights use power. Having them off increases the amount of electricity going to the battery. Remember, this does not replace charging the battery. A car's alternator is not designed to fully restore a depleted battery, but rather to maintain a healthy one. As soon as possible, put your battery on a battery charger such as the Battery Tender, and a give it a full charge for a day or two. If you have an automatic transmission, you can jump-start the car instead. If the charging system is in proper working condition, it will recharge quickly. Follow the same steps as above to ensure that the car won't need another jump, then, as soon as possible, have the battery fully charged by a mechanic or by yourself if you own a high-quality battery charger . We've included an link below as a refresher course on jump-starting. How To: Jump-Start Another tip: If parking a car for long periods of time (weeks or months), it's best to disconnect the battery to prevent discharging. Use a crescent or open-ended wrench to loosen the strap from the negative terminal on the battery, then remove the connector. Make sure the connector is tucked away from the terminal, where it cannot come into contact with the post. Battery Maintenance We promised a few maintenance tips on standard-duty batteries. * Check the water level every couple of months. It should be just touching the bottom of the refill hole. * Refill the battery, when needed, with distilled water. Don't use tap water, which produces corrosion on the terminals. * Don't overfill the cells. Just to the bottom of the refill hole is perfect. The following tips apply to all batteries, including maintenance-free. * To ensure good connectivity, clean the terminals periodically with a wire brush. * When removing a connector from a terminal, twist it from side to side and pull gently upward. Refrain from excessive tugging or prying. * When reconnecting a connector to a terminal, seat it down firmly on the post. A few gentle whacks from a rubber mallet will do it. Don't overtighten and strip the nut. * After securing the connector, coat the whole post with high-temperature grease. This will reduce corrosion and rust. * If you keep having electrical problems (battery dies, car won't start, power is intermittent or weak), it's not necessarily the battery. It could be in the charging system, normally either a bad alternator or voltage regulator. A mechanic can test the system to isolate the problem. These general maintenance tips will extend the life of your battery. One final note. News has come to light recently that automotive manufacturers are experimenting with 36-volt batteries in prototype cars. Because of the increasing number of electrical gadgets finding their way into modern vehicles, it's likely we'll be seeing a more advanced electrical system in coming years.
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A closer look at car repair insurance Generally when we talk about a car repair insurance we are referring to an agreement that is made between an insurance company and the owner of a car. This particular coverage would normally cover the expenses that one would incur with respect to repairing. It would depend on the coverage and the policy package that the owner acquires by the signing of the policy with the company. Let us take a closer look at this issue in greater this means is that the insurance company would be held legally accountable for expenditure with regards to the fixing and maintenance of the insurance car autel maxidiag elite md802 update. This would normally be for a certain period of time and would depend on the signed agreement between the insurance company and the owner of the car. Moreover the time that this agreement would take differs for every company. Also the time duration and the rates that are charged would be different from state to state. This means that one should be completely aware about the entire criteria when it comes to the agreements regarding car repair before you ever get into an agreement like this, you should be totally aware of the merits and demerits of it. Moreover you must endeavor to ask every question from the representative of the company before accepting the terms and conditions. This would definitely depend on the limits of your budget too. When you are able to get very good car repair insurance, the insurance company would be legally responsible for the payment of malfunctioning, damage and breakdown of the car. Any kind of deterioration that the car suffers would be borne by repair insurance differences: The fact of the matter is that there are different policy agreements that may be signed. For some of the car repair insurance, the company may just pay for the auto parts of the car that are damaged or malfunctioning and thus needs servicing. They may also choose to pay for the stuff that functioning ability has reduced with the passage of time. There are some of the companies that may choose to pay for both as it happens. In addition to the fixing of the engine, radiator malfunctioning, lubricant outflow, leakage of gas or fuel and repairing of some parts, they may undertake other responsibilities to ensure your car is in good condition autel maxidiag elite md802. With the car repair insurance they can repair your speedometer and tapes in the repair insurance, warranty and quality: One should be very well informed about the warranty and quality of payments that are made by the insurance company with respect to the auto parts. This is to ensure that you do not get into the trap of getting cheap spare parts as they are damaged. Indeed you would come across some few insurance companies that can pay for excellent branded quality car parts. However with such companies' one would have to part ways with high premiums for those with low mileage values to make the car repair insurance effective.
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